We are giving away a Canon EF travel mug to all top 5 entrants!
Steven Vella, Claudia Portelli, Jonathan Busuttil and Angie Borda - please get in touch on 2148 8800 or fb@canonmalta.com to claim your prize :-)
Monday, February 28, 2011
On second thought.....
I honestly think all top 5 entries deserve a little something for their amazing input!
We are giving away a Canon EF travel mug to all top 5 entrants!
Steven Vella, Claudia Portelli, Jonathan Busuttil and Angie Borda - please get in touch on 2148 8800 or fb@canonmalta.com to claim your prize :-)
We are giving away a Canon EF travel mug to all top 5 entrants!
Steven Vella, Claudia Portelli, Jonathan Busuttil and Angie Borda - please get in touch on 2148 8800 or fb@canonmalta.com to claim your prize :-)
FOOD glorious food!
I must say I am well impressed with the interest our latest facebook competition, themed 'FOOD', has caused!
With 104 fantastic and tantalisingly delicious entries, and over 8100 global 'likes' - we think everyone deserves a big well done!
Here are our top 5 most 'liked' entries:
Ranking 5th is Angie Borda's contrasting array of veggies, 223 likes
4th place - Jonathan Busuttil's 'Floating Strawberry, 269 likes
Claudia Portelli's retro cake ranks 3rd, with 476 likes
Ranking 2nd is Steven Vella's slice of orange - 647 likes!
And first place is Daniela Agius's olives - 659 likes in total!
What can I say? I'm lucky I did not have to judge this one! :-)
Daniela Agius wins a €100 voucher to spend on any Canon photo-video product her heart desires; whilst we also gave one lucky voter a chance to win a Powershot A495 - which goes to Joseph Masini.
A big well done to everyone! Make sure you check back into our facebook page on a regular basis; don't miss out on our next competition, exclusive special offers - and more!
Have a great Monday!
With 104 fantastic and tantalisingly delicious entries, and over 8100 global 'likes' - we think everyone deserves a big well done!
Here are our top 5 most 'liked' entries:
Ranking 5th is Angie Borda's contrasting array of veggies, 223 likes
4th place - Jonathan Busuttil's 'Floating Strawberry, 269 likes
Claudia Portelli's retro cake ranks 3rd, with 476 likes
Ranking 2nd is Steven Vella's slice of orange - 647 likes!
And first place is Daniela Agius's olives - 659 likes in total!
What can I say? I'm lucky I did not have to judge this one! :-)
Daniela Agius wins a €100 voucher to spend on any Canon photo-video product her heart desires; whilst we also gave one lucky voter a chance to win a Powershot A495 - which goes to Joseph Masini.
A big well done to everyone! Make sure you check back into our facebook page on a regular basis; don't miss out on our next competition, exclusive special offers - and more!
Have a great Monday!
Monday, February 21, 2011
Tutorial: Night Photography Tips
Night time changes even the most familiar scenes. This creates an opportunity for a whole new range of photos. So put your coat on, take your camera and investigate the exciting world of night photography with our tutorial.
To help you capture the best of night light, this tutorial will cover:
• How to overcome lower light levels
• Getting the exposure correct
• When to take shots
• Suggestions for photographic subjects
Night vision
The digital sensor in your camera has some similarities to the human eye. As light levels drop, you need to get more light to the sensor. This is done by setting a wider lens aperture. The sensor is made up of millions of photo receptors, or pixels (short for picture elements). The sensor can be made more sensitive to light by increasing the camera’s ISO setting. This amplifies the light signals after they have been received by the pixels.
Unfortunately, amplification of the light signals can have a disadvantage. Unwanted background signals are also amplified and above certain levels these show up as ‘noise’ – coloured speckles across the image. The latest Canon compact digital cameras feature the HS System which lowers noise levels by up to 60%. Discover more about the HS System.
Even with the higher ISO settings available with HS System, you will still find that shutter speeds will be significantly slower at night. A tripod or camera clamp are the best options to keep your camera steady during the exposure. But if you do not own either of these, then make sure that you rest you camera on a flat and stable surface such as a low wall, a seat or the roof of your car.
Flash control
One obvious way to cope with low levels of light is to add more. Electronic flash is built in to most cameras for this purpose. It is useful when photographing people indoors and out, but less effective for general night photography. First, the power of the flash is too low to illuminate street scenes or general views. Second, the attraction of many night scenes is their existing illumination – adding further light will often ruin the atmosphere.
Many cameras automatically fire the flash by default in low light. If you are serious about night photography you should switch the flash off. Compact digital cameras usually have an ‘Off’ setting for the built-in flash – check your user manual for details on your camera. EOS cameras only activate the flash automatically in the Full Auto (green square), portrait and macro shooting modes – avoid these for night photography.
Exposure time
Night exposure can be a tricky business.
There are often large dark areas in the scene, with a few bright areas. The auto exposure metering system of your camera can get confused and give an image that is too light or too dark. This is not really a problem with digital cameras. You can take the picture using auto exposure and view the image on the LCD. If the exposure is not correct, simply apply exposure compensation and shoot again.
Most cameras offer exposure compensation in the range of +2 to -2 stops. If the first image looks too dark, apply +1 or +2 stops of compensation. Use -1 or -2 stops of compensation if the image is too light. You can experiment with different settings until the image you take appears to have the correct exposure.
Twilight zone
One of the best times for night photography is just after sunset. Although the sun is below the horizon, it still provides some light. Whilst the sky might look quite dark to your eyes, your camera will pick up this light during a long exposure to give a deep blue background to your main subject. Once you are passed the twilight period, the sky in these photographs will be black.
Sunset sequence
One way to appreciate the power of twilight is to shoot a sequence of pictures from an hour or so before sunset to an hour or so after. This needs a couple of hours of your time, but the results will demonstrate how the sky changes.
Try to find a scene with an interesting subject in the foreground or middle distance. A building, statue or rock formation is ideal. Have your camera on a tripod so that it does not move between shots. However, this is not essential, providing you shoot from about the same position for each exposure.
You need an evening with a fairly cloudless sky. Take the first picture about an hour before sunset, then shoot at 10 or 15 minute intervals. Keep shooting until an hour or so after sunset. When you view the images in sequence you should see the sky change from blue to red to dark blue to black.
Firework bursts
Taking good photographs of fireworks can be difficult so consider the following points:
- PowerShot and IXUS cameras have a Fireworks setting. Check your user manual for details
- Set the camera focusing to manual, if available, and focus on infinity
- Select manual shooting mode and set an aperture of f/8. The shutter speed can be around 1/60 second (for a handheld camera) to 5 or 10 seconds (for a camera on a tripod) at ISO 400
- Switch your camera to movie mode and capture the action as it happens.
City streets
City streets take on a completely different appearance at night. Shop windows glow, neon signs add colour and even ordinary street lighting can make buildings look romantic. If you are able to shoot after a rain shower all the lights will be reflected from the roads and pavements, adding impact to your images.
Magic movement
You can keep your camera steady during long exposures, but what about your subject? Most of the subject is likely to be static – buildings and foreground, for example. The parts that move will mostly be vehicles and people. At night, vehicles will have their lights on – these will leave attractive light trails across the image during an exposure of several seconds.
People who move across the scene at night will often appear as elongated ghosts – you will be able to see through them because the background behind them will have been exposed for some of the exposure.
Enter the Gallery
So just because there is less light, do not think there are less photographic opportunities. Take your camera out and try some night photography using the advice in this tutorial. Then enter your favourite shots on our Facebook page and next month your photo could be displayed as one of the best!
Find our facebook page here:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/CanonMaltacom/139581842750367
To help you capture the best of night light, this tutorial will cover:
• How to overcome lower light levels
• Getting the exposure correct
• When to take shots
• Suggestions for photographic subjects
Night vision
The digital sensor in your camera has some similarities to the human eye. As light levels drop, you need to get more light to the sensor. This is done by setting a wider lens aperture. The sensor is made up of millions of photo receptors, or pixels (short for picture elements). The sensor can be made more sensitive to light by increasing the camera’s ISO setting. This amplifies the light signals after they have been received by the pixels.
Unfortunately, amplification of the light signals can have a disadvantage. Unwanted background signals are also amplified and above certain levels these show up as ‘noise’ – coloured speckles across the image. The latest Canon compact digital cameras feature the HS System which lowers noise levels by up to 60%. Discover more about the HS System.
Even with the higher ISO settings available with HS System, you will still find that shutter speeds will be significantly slower at night. A tripod or camera clamp are the best options to keep your camera steady during the exposure. But if you do not own either of these, then make sure that you rest you camera on a flat and stable surface such as a low wall, a seat or the roof of your car.
Flash control
One obvious way to cope with low levels of light is to add more. Electronic flash is built in to most cameras for this purpose. It is useful when photographing people indoors and out, but less effective for general night photography. First, the power of the flash is too low to illuminate street scenes or general views. Second, the attraction of many night scenes is their existing illumination – adding further light will often ruin the atmosphere.
Many cameras automatically fire the flash by default in low light. If you are serious about night photography you should switch the flash off. Compact digital cameras usually have an ‘Off’ setting for the built-in flash – check your user manual for details on your camera. EOS cameras only activate the flash automatically in the Full Auto (green square), portrait and macro shooting modes – avoid these for night photography.
Exposure time
Night exposure can be a tricky business.
There are often large dark areas in the scene, with a few bright areas. The auto exposure metering system of your camera can get confused and give an image that is too light or too dark. This is not really a problem with digital cameras. You can take the picture using auto exposure and view the image on the LCD. If the exposure is not correct, simply apply exposure compensation and shoot again.
Most cameras offer exposure compensation in the range of +2 to -2 stops. If the first image looks too dark, apply +1 or +2 stops of compensation. Use -1 or -2 stops of compensation if the image is too light. You can experiment with different settings until the image you take appears to have the correct exposure.
Twilight zone
One of the best times for night photography is just after sunset. Although the sun is below the horizon, it still provides some light. Whilst the sky might look quite dark to your eyes, your camera will pick up this light during a long exposure to give a deep blue background to your main subject. Once you are passed the twilight period, the sky in these photographs will be black.
Sunset sequence
One way to appreciate the power of twilight is to shoot a sequence of pictures from an hour or so before sunset to an hour or so after. This needs a couple of hours of your time, but the results will demonstrate how the sky changes.
Try to find a scene with an interesting subject in the foreground or middle distance. A building, statue or rock formation is ideal. Have your camera on a tripod so that it does not move between shots. However, this is not essential, providing you shoot from about the same position for each exposure.
You need an evening with a fairly cloudless sky. Take the first picture about an hour before sunset, then shoot at 10 or 15 minute intervals. Keep shooting until an hour or so after sunset. When you view the images in sequence you should see the sky change from blue to red to dark blue to black.
Firework bursts
Taking good photographs of fireworks can be difficult so consider the following points:
- PowerShot and IXUS cameras have a Fireworks setting. Check your user manual for details
- Set the camera focusing to manual, if available, and focus on infinity
- Select manual shooting mode and set an aperture of f/8. The shutter speed can be around 1/60 second (for a handheld camera) to 5 or 10 seconds (for a camera on a tripod) at ISO 400
- Switch your camera to movie mode and capture the action as it happens.
City streets
City streets take on a completely different appearance at night. Shop windows glow, neon signs add colour and even ordinary street lighting can make buildings look romantic. If you are able to shoot after a rain shower all the lights will be reflected from the roads and pavements, adding impact to your images.
Magic movement
You can keep your camera steady during long exposures, but what about your subject? Most of the subject is likely to be static – buildings and foreground, for example. The parts that move will mostly be vehicles and people. At night, vehicles will have their lights on – these will leave attractive light trails across the image during an exposure of several seconds.
People who move across the scene at night will often appear as elongated ghosts – you will be able to see through them because the background behind them will have been exposed for some of the exposure.
Enter the Gallery
So just because there is less light, do not think there are less photographic opportunities. Take your camera out and try some night photography using the advice in this tutorial. Then enter your favourite shots on our Facebook page and next month your photo could be displayed as one of the best!
Find our facebook page here:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/CanonMaltacom/139581842750367
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
Canon's HS system for great night shots - we're blown away!!
It's as easy as abc to get a great shot during daylight - the sun gives the perfect lighting. Night shots and low light situations are a completely different matter. Don't you hate it when your photos turn out to be blown out by the flash, or blurred?
The Canon HS SYSTEM combines the DIGIC 4 Image Processor with a High-Sensitivity sensor. The HS SYSTEM helps to reduce noise at high ISO levels and expand the camera's dynamic range, ultimately capturing greater detail and color in images in low-light situations.
By boosting the camera's dynamic range, consumers are able to capture clearer images with less noise and blur than older camera systems. Due to the Canon HS SYSTEM's higher light sensitivity, it helps deliver brilliant, sharp images without the use of the flash, for a more natural look in photographs.
Canon's HS system is currently present in the Powershot G12 and IXUS 1000 HS.
For more info......leave your comments below or should you like to call us please do so on 2148 8800, or email us on fb@canonmalta.com.
Don't let your moments get lost in the dark!
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
Choosing your first SLR
Following my last post on a compact vs. an SLR; this post will help you choose your first - that is - if you have decided an SLR is right for you.
I will follow up with another post for all those who have opted for a point and shoot camera, with some tips on how to choose which model suits your needs.
So you've decided you want to buy yourself an SLR. Before your excitement and fervor explodes through the roof, and you run out and buy the first SLR you can get your hands on, sit down and have a good long think. Unlike a simple compact camera, SLRs are a different breed, so before you commit yourself and splash out the cash do your homework!
Price
SLRs come with a price tag, and how much you would like to spend is the first question you should ask yourself. Also keep in mind that after a couple of months you will also be looking into upgrading the kit lens that comes with your camera, and you need a variety of accessories such as filters, a camera bag, lens hoods, a spare battery etc.
Canon's entry level SLRs start from 460 Euros including a standard 18-55mm kit lens, whilst the semi-pro models start from 1,100 Euros including the standard 18-55mm kit lens.
What do you need your camera for?
The next step is to narrow down your options by thinking about what you will be using your camera for. If you will be using it for general shooting, such as the outdoors, family events and outings, and travel memoirs, an entry-level model such as the EOS 1000D or the EOS 550D is sufficient.
Shooting subjects at high speed, such as sports or action photography will require a very fast camera with a high frame rate, whilst if you will be shooting in low light you will need a camera with the best possible high ISO performance.
Canon EOS 60D - 5.3 fps (frames per second); maximum ISO 12800
Canon EOS 7D - 8 fps; maximum ISO 12800
Canon EOS 5D II - 3.9fps; maximum ISO 25600
Canon EOS 1D IV - 10fps; maximum ISO 25600
Size and weight
SLRs are bulkier and heavier than their compact counterparts, however there is a difference between the different SLR models too. If you want a light SLR, I suggest you go for the entry level models.
Sensor size
Something else to consider is the size of the sensor. The terms 'crop sensor' and 'full frame' come up when one talks about image sensor size - I will elaborate on this in another post as it is a bit too complicated for the scope of this one. In general, full frame sensors really shine when it comes to image quality and high ISO performance, however their downside is they cost quite a bit.
Upgrades
Whilst entry-level models are much easier on the pocket, they do tend to date quicker than the more expensive pro models. Do you see yourself grasping photography and wanting to upgrade to a better model with more features? This may be hard to answer, but it does pay better in the long run to invest in a little more into a model you can grow into.
Other features you might like
Vari-angle LCD: easy shooting from high or low angles, available in the EOS 60D
Auto mode & scene modes: if you enjoy your easy and lazy 'auto' button on your compact and/or want an array of shooting modes, such as portrait, sports, night, macro etc, aim for a 1000D, 550D, or 60D, as the higher end models do not have them.
With so many points to consider, the most important thing is that you decide what you want from your camera. Make a list of all the features which are important to you and gradually start pinpointing at the models which interest you. If you have any questions at all, please feel free to post them here, we will be more than happy to help!
I will follow up with another post for all those who have opted for a point and shoot camera, with some tips on how to choose which model suits your needs.
So you've decided you want to buy yourself an SLR. Before your excitement and fervor explodes through the roof, and you run out and buy the first SLR you can get your hands on, sit down and have a good long think. Unlike a simple compact camera, SLRs are a different breed, so before you commit yourself and splash out the cash do your homework!
PriceSLRs come with a price tag, and how much you would like to spend is the first question you should ask yourself. Also keep in mind that after a couple of months you will also be looking into upgrading the kit lens that comes with your camera, and you need a variety of accessories such as filters, a camera bag, lens hoods, a spare battery etc.
Canon's entry level SLRs start from 460 Euros including a standard 18-55mm kit lens, whilst the semi-pro models start from 1,100 Euros including the standard 18-55mm kit lens.
What do you need your camera for?
The next step is to narrow down your options by thinking about what you will be using your camera for. If you will be using it for general shooting, such as the outdoors, family events and outings, and travel memoirs, an entry-level model such as the EOS 1000D or the EOS 550D is sufficient.
Shooting subjects at high speed, such as sports or action photography will require a very fast camera with a high frame rate, whilst if you will be shooting in low light you will need a camera with the best possible high ISO performance.
Canon EOS 60D - 5.3 fps (frames per second); maximum ISO 12800
Canon EOS 7D - 8 fps; maximum ISO 12800
Canon EOS 5D II - 3.9fps; maximum ISO 25600
Canon EOS 1D IV - 10fps; maximum ISO 25600
Size and weight
SLRs are bulkier and heavier than their compact counterparts, however there is a difference between the different SLR models too. If you want a light SLR, I suggest you go for the entry level models.
Sensor size
Something else to consider is the size of the sensor. The terms 'crop sensor' and 'full frame' come up when one talks about image sensor size - I will elaborate on this in another post as it is a bit too complicated for the scope of this one. In general, full frame sensors really shine when it comes to image quality and high ISO performance, however their downside is they cost quite a bit.
Upgrades
Whilst entry-level models are much easier on the pocket, they do tend to date quicker than the more expensive pro models. Do you see yourself grasping photography and wanting to upgrade to a better model with more features? This may be hard to answer, but it does pay better in the long run to invest in a little more into a model you can grow into.
Other features you might like
Vari-angle LCD: easy shooting from high or low angles, available in the EOS 60D
Auto mode & scene modes: if you enjoy your easy and lazy 'auto' button on your compact and/or want an array of shooting modes, such as portrait, sports, night, macro etc, aim for a 1000D, 550D, or 60D, as the higher end models do not have them.
With so many points to consider, the most important thing is that you decide what you want from your camera. Make a list of all the features which are important to you and gradually start pinpointing at the models which interest you. If you have any questions at all, please feel free to post them here, we will be more than happy to help!
Monday, February 7, 2011
What should I buy - a DSLR camera or a point and shoot?
Rightly so, this question is a regular, mostly due to the fact that DSLR prices have dropped and are within reach of an average person's budget.
I'm going to try and keep this as simple and 'un-technical' as possible.
Here are a few pointers to help you make your decision...
1. Size
If you are looking for a camera that fits in your pocket then obviously a DSLR is not for you. Besides having a much larger body, be prepared to carry around a couple of lenses and/or accessories.
2. Camera response time
Are you into action or sports photography? If you are irritated by any delay between pressing the button and the photo being taken, then I suggest you seriously consider a DSLR.
3. Night/low light shots
DSLRs have bigger sensors than compact cameras and therefore are more sensitive to light, giving you much better image quality at high ISO levels. Due to the flexibility of manual settings you can also play around with slow shutter speeds to capture the night ambiance and lights without 'spoiling' the image with a flash to obtain more light.
4. Adaptibility
DSLRs open up a world of possibilities with their ability to change lenses. From wide angle lenses to superzooms, to macro lenses to photograph subjects unseen to the naked eye - every lens tells a different story. Add to this a large range of other accessories, such as flashes or different filters, and your DSLR can produce a variety of different images and adapted to a thousand and one situations.
5. Maintenance
Whilst a point and shoot camera requires no maintenance at all (that is, unless you are careless with it!), a DSLR requires a bit more care. One has to take into consideration that each time you change a lens you run the risk of letting dust into your camera; meaning that your DLSRs image sensor would need to get a professional cleaning every once in a while.
So what should you buy?
Even though I've mentioned a few differences between the two you might still be unsure. Here are a few questions to help you conclude:
Do you want to take more professional looking photos?
Do you want to be able to change the lens attached to your camera?
Are you looking to have more control over the images you are taking?
Do you want to take better photos in low light?
Do you need a camera which responds very quickly?
If you answered 'YES' to all the above questions - then a DSLR is the camera for you.
Buying a DLSR needn't break the bank. Canon's entry level DSLRs start from under €500 including a standard kit lens to get you going.
Having said all this, I own both a point and shoot camera and a DLSR. I like having both as I believe they compliment each other and whilst a DLSR is super flexible and produces amazing top quality photos, my compact comes in handy as it is so convenient and quick to reach for and snap away!
Any questions, please comment below!
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